If you’re moving with a house full of antiques, you’re probably worried about getting them there in one piece. You spent real money on those pieces. You don’t want them damaged en route. It’s tempting to assume you can wrap them, box them, and be done.
There’s more to it than that. Two things matter more than your wrapping technique:
- Declare your antiques in writing before moving day. Federal rules let a mover cap what it owes on any item worth more than $100 per pound. The fix is to list it on the shipping papers. The rule names antiques by example.
- Never let plastic touch an antique finish. Stretch wrap and bubble wrap trap water against the surface. Acid-free or glassine paper goes on first.
Get those two right and the rest is technique. Get them wrong and no amount of bubble wrap will save you. This guide covers both. It is also why we suggest a crew trained in antique and art moves.
DIY vs. Hiring Movers for Antiques
Hiring a crew with antique training is usually the right call. They know how to pack and haul fragile pieces. They handle these items daily. They bring the special supplies with them. They pack, load, and move your items too.
Here is a rule of thumb. Movers suggest pro handling for anything worth more than $1,000 per item, or $100 per pound. That second number matters, and we explain why below.
If you pack a piece yourself and it breaks, you absorb the loss. That gets expensive fast.
What Packing Antiques Yourself Costs You in a Claim
Here’s the part nobody tells you, and it changes the math on DIY packing.
FMCSA lists the things that limit what your mover owes you. Packing your own boxes is on that list. In the agency’s own words, if the items you pack get damaged, it may be harder to make a claim for those boxes.
That is the real trade-off. Packing your own antiques saves money on labor. It also weakens your case if something arrives broken. The mover can argue the damage came from the packing, not the handling.
So the question is not only “can I pack this myself.” It is “if this breaks, who pays.” For a $200 side table, DIY is fine. For a piece you would grieve over, buy the packing service and keep your claim clean.
Declare Your Antiques Before Moving Day
Skip this section and you can lose thousands.
Federal rules (49 CFR Part 375) define an article of extraordinary value as any item worth more than $100 per pound. The rule names antiques directly. It also names jewelry, silverware, china, furs, and oriental rugs.
Movers may cap what they owe on those items. The exception is simple. List the item on the shipping papers and your mover stays on the hook for safe delivery.
Most movers use a High-Value Inventory form for this. Ask for it. Fill it out before load day. Keep your copy.
What Your Mover Actually Owes You
Basic coverage is not insurance, and this is where the old version of this article got it wrong.
The default is 60 cents per pound, per article. FMCSA sets that rate for moves across state lines. TxDMV sets the same rate for moves inside Texas.
Run the math on a real piece. A 50-pound antique dresser worth $2,500 pays out $30. Not $30 toward a repair. Thirty dollars, total.
Your options are:
- Released Value Protection. Free. Capped at 60 cents per pound per article.
- Full Value Protection. Costs extra. The mover owes you replacement value. You still have to declare high-value items.
- Third-party moving insurance. A real policy from a licensed provider. Buy this for a serious collection.
FMCSA is clear on one point. Valuation is not the same as the mover’s own business insurance. Valuation caps what you can claim. Insurance is a separate product. See our moving insurance page for how we handle it.
Get an Appraisal First
You cannot declare a value you do not know. Have an appraiser price anything major before you book. Then check if your homeowner’s policy covers those items in transit. Many do not.
Keep appraisal documents and photos with you, not on the truck.
How to Prep Antiques For Moving
Prep matters as much as packing. Here are some tips.
Create an Inventory
Go through each room and list the antiques you own. Photograph each piece and note its shape. Get wide shots and close-ups of hardware, joints, veneers, and any damage.
Do not skip this step. You can check the list once you are moved in. If anything is missing or broken, you have proof. This list also feeds your high-value form.
Clean the Antiques
Use a dry or barely damp microfiber cloth. Skip strong chemicals, and skip polish right before a move. Never soak antique wood.
Empty drawers and cabinets. Take off doors, knobs, legs, and shelves where it is safe. Put every screw in a labeled zip bag and tape it under the piece. Photograph the build first if it is tricky.
Fewer parts means less weight and less strain on old joints. It also saves your floors and walls on the way out.
Materials That Protect Antiques, and Materials That Ruin Them
Most antique damage comes from the wrong material touching the wrong surface.
Use these:
- Acid-free tissue or glassine paper as the first layer against any finish
- Moving blankets and furniture pads
- Corner and edge protectors
- Bubble wrap, over the paper layer
- Custom wooden crates for high-value or oddly shaped pieces
- Labeled zip bags for hardware
Avoid these:
- Plastic against the surface. Stretch wrap and bubble wrap trap water. That causes clouding, sticking, mold, and finish damage. Wrap in paper first, then blankets. Use stretch wrap only to hold the blankets on.
- Newspaper. The ink rubs off and the acid stains old finishes for good.
- Regular tape on any finish. It lifts veneer and leaves sticky marks.
- Thin single-wall boxes. Use double-walled cartons for anything fragile.
If you take one thing from this page, take this: plastic never touches the piece.
Packing Antiques by Type
Different materials need different handling. Here is how they break down.
Wood Furniture: Tables, Dressers, Desks
Wipe the surfaces. Take out drawers, legs, and loose parts. Bag the hardware.
Fit corner and edge guards. Wrap the piece and each loose part in acid-free paper. Add bubble wrap over the paper if it needs padding. Wrap in moving blankets. Hold the blankets with stretch wrap, keeping the plastic off the wood.
Mirrors, Glass, and Glazed Doors
Run painter’s tape in an X across each flat pane. That holds the pieces together if it cracks.
Wrap in glassine paper. Add bubble wrap over it. Box it in a mirror carton or a custom crate. Fill every gap with packing paper. Mark the box FRAGILE on the top and two sides, and mark which end is up. Keep these upright, never flat. Our guide to packing pictures and mirrors goes deeper.
China, Ceramics, and Glassware
Wrap each piece on its own in acid-free paper. Stand plates on edge. Do not stack them flat. Use dish barrels with cell dividers. Fill every gap so nothing shifts. See our guide to packing fragile items.
Clocks, Pianos, and Oversized Pieces
Some pieces should not be a DIY job.
On a grandfather clock, take out the pendulum and weights. Wrap the internal parts in acid-free paper and tie off the chains. On a piano, the legs, lyre, and pedals come off first. Armoires and china cabinets need doors and shelves out, plus tape on any glass.
If a piece is heavy, tall, or awkward, call piano and antique movers instead of testing it.
Paintings, Frames, and Textiles
Never let bubble wrap sit on a painted surface. Put glassine against the art, add corner guards to the frame, then use a picture box or crate.
Roll antique rugs and textiles instead of folding them, face in. Layer acid-free tissue between them. For more, read how to move art and valuables safely and our guide to moving wall art.
Securing and Labeling Boxes
Fill every gap in the box with packing paper or foam. Shifting is a top cause of damage in transit.
Tape boxes well, including the bottom seam. Label each one in detail and mark FRAGILE. Put all antique boxes in one spot so your crew knows to go slow there. It also makes unpacking easier at the new place.
Keep antique boxes off the bottom of any stack. Nothing heavy goes on top of them.
Moving Antiques in Texas Heat
This matters more in DFW than most guides admit.
Antique wood moves with the air. It swells when the air is damp and shrinks when it is dry. Old glue joints and veneer fail first when that happens fast. A truck parked in a Fort Worth lot in August runs far hotter than the air outside.
Practical steps for a Texas summer move:
- Schedule antique loading early in the day
- Ask if your mover can offer climate-controlled transport on a long haul
- Never leave antiques in an unconditioned truck or garage overnight
- Use climate-controlled storage if your dates don’t line up, not a standard unit
- Let pieces sit indoors for a day before you unwrap and rebuild them
A long-distance move raises the stakes. The pieces sit on a truck through days of heat swings. See our antique storage tips for more.
Mistakes That Damage Antiques
Most claims trace back to a short list of errors.
- Letting stretch wrap or bubble wrap touch the finish
- Wrapping in newspaper
- Skipping the condition photos, so you have no proof of damage
- Failing to declare high-value pieces in writing
- Counting on basic coverage to make you whole
- Dragging a piece instead of lifting it, which strains the joints
- Leaving hardware loose in a box
- Stacking heavy cartons on top of antiques
- Moving a piece without measuring the doorway first
Frequently Asked Questions About Packing Antiques
Should you wrap antique furniture in plastic?
No. Stretch wrap and bubble wrap trap water against the finish. That can cloud the surface, cause sticking, or grow mold. Wrap the piece in acid-free or glassine paper first. Add moving blankets. Then use stretch wrap only to hold the blankets on.
Are my antiques covered if the movers break something?
Only up to the coverage you picked. The default is 60 cents per pound, per article. That rate comes from FMCSA rules and from TxDMV rules for Texas moves. A 50-pound dresser pays $30. Pick Full Value Protection or buy outside insurance, and declare high-value pieces in writing.
What counts as an article of extraordinary value?
Federal rules define it as any item worth more than $100 per pound. The rule names antiques directly, plus jewelry, silverware, china, furs, and oriental rugs. List these on the shipping papers or your mover can cap what it owes.
Can I use newspaper to wrap antiques?
No. Newspaper ink rubs off on the surface. The acid in the paper stains old finishes. Use acid-free tissue or glassine paper instead.
Do I need an appraisal before moving antiques?
Yes, for anything major. You cannot declare a value you have not set. An appraisal also backs up any claim you file later. While you are at it, check if your homeowner’s policy covers those items in transit.
How far ahead should I book antique movers?
Book four to eight weeks out. Go earlier for a summer move in DFW. Special crews and custom crates both need lead time.
Contact Olde World Movers
Olde World Movers has your antique packing covered. We offer this service across Fort Worth, Euless, and Frisco.
We bring the acid-free paper, the crates, and the blankets. We walk you through your coverage options before you sign. We also tell you which pieces to declare on the high-value form. That paperwork protects you more than any wrapping trick.
Call for a free estimate today or request your free estimate online.
